What to wear under your graduation gown

A graduation gown is cut to hang open at the front. When you stand still it frames you like a long black coat; the moment you walk, sit down or take the stairs, it swings apart. So most of what you wear disappears behind it, and three parts of your outfit carry the whole look.

Your hood depends on your award, and the official robe maker's booking system picks the right one for you once you choose your ceremony and award. Look it up before you shop. Until you know what yours looks like, dress so that almost any hood will sit happily against you.

Then plan for the length of the day. The university recommends arriving two and a half hours before your ceremony: registration, the robing room and the official photographers are all at The Midland Hotel, and you need to be seated in The Bridgewater Hall well before the start. Ceremonies usually run 60 to 90 minutes, and larger ones up to two hours. That's a long time in shoes and a waistband, so comfort counts.

The weather matters more than people expect, because the walk between the hotel and the hall happens outdoors, in your gown. The Met Office's records for Manchester's Ringway station put July at 13 to 21°C on average and November at 4 to 10°C, with nearly half as much rain again in November as in July. Bags and overcoats aren't allowed into the auditorium (there's a cloakroom), so choose layers that look finished without a coat on top.

Cameras reward contrast. A light shirt, dress or neckline lifts the black gown in photographs; a top close to black merges with it and loses its shape. Deep colours work too, as long as something brighter sits near your face.

Shape matters more than detail. The gown already adds volume, so a dress that hugs the body still looks like a dress when the gown parts, while a loose, floaty one becomes a blur of fabric in photographs. A fitted mini, a bodycon midi or a structured knit all keep their line. If you prefer length, a satin or crepe column to the ankle looks graceful on stage, provided the hem clears the stairs.

Manchester Met's own tip is worth taking: a buttoned blouse or shirt keeps the hood anchored where it belongs. If your dress has no buttons at the front, a fitted shirt underneath or a high, firm neckline does the same job, and saves you tugging at the hood all day.

For colour, light shades give the cleanest contrast: ivory, white, pale blue, soft blush. Rich colours such as cobalt, emerald and deep teal look striking against black and photograph well under artificial light. Once you've seen your hood, avoid anything that nearly matches it; a near miss looks like a mistake, while a clear contrast looks chosen.

Choose shoes for the stairs first. To cross the stage you go up a flight of steps at one side, across the platform with the hall watching, and down the other side, and the university asks for formal footwear. A block heel, a low heel you've tested on a staircase at home, or a smart pointed flat all manage it. Add the walk from the Midland: if the pavements are wet, smooth soles and very high heels are a risk.

Think about your hair and the mortarboard together. It needs to sit level on your head through the ceremony and the photographs, so a style that leaves room for the cap is easier than one built high at the crown. Keep jewellery small, because the hood covers your shoulders and most of your neckline.

A well-fitted suit is the safest choice and the one the university names first. Aim for a jacket that sits close at the shoulders and waist, and trousers hemmed to rest lightly on the shoe. Charcoal, navy and mid-grey hold their shape against the black gown in every photograph. In summer, stone or pale grey in a lighter cloth stays formal without overheating; in November, wear wool and bring a coat you can leave in the cloakroom.

Not wearing a suit? A pressed shirt, a tie and tailored trousers meet the same standard, and a waistcoat adds shape if you skip the jacket. The gown hides your back and most of your sleeves; what people actually see is your shirt, your tie, and your trousers and shoes below the knee.

The buttoned shirt is the university's own advice. A hood slides as you walk, sit and stand for photographs, and a fastened front gives it something to rest against. Tuck the shirt in properly, so nothing bunches at the waist each time the gown opens.

For the tie, a muted solid or a fine texture is the most reliable choice: navy, silver grey and deep green all sit well against a white shirt and a black gown. If you want to echo your hood, wait until you've seen it, then choose a quieter shade of one of its colours rather than an exact match.

Shoes should be polished leather in black or dark brown: oxfords, derbies or loafers, already broken in. The stairs to the stage and the walk from the Midland both reward a sole with some grip, especially in November. Keep the watch simple; it shows at the cuff in most photographs.